Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 2.1: Sapporo Haru, Revisited

Sapporo Haru
622 Manhattan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11222
(718) 389-9697

THREE REASONS WHY this topic is worth revisiting:

First, the original MEF! post on Sapporo was anything but comprehensive.

Second, there is now an over-abundance of sushi places in Greenpoint, all within a few blocks of each other, which only furthers the debate about where to purchase one's raw fish around these parts. Sapporo Haru and Wasabi were both excellent choices when they were the only games in town. Ah, but for progress. A couple of upstarts makes the decision tougher, the debate worth clarifying.

Third, in light of a recent conversation with Kevin (note: the two of us are no masters of sushi knowledge, unless Kevin is keeping something from me), expectations have been raised. It was pointed out to me that perhaps the test of good maki is whether or not each of the roll's individual pieces is distinguishable in texture, flavor, etc. An excellent point. Kevin finds that Wasabi's chefs do a better job of accomplishing this feat than do Sapporo's.

Roxie, on a recent trip; ume shiso roll as it should be, top

I have no desire to eat at all of the sushi newcomers and mainstays in Greenpoint to determine which is tops. That's expensive, people. I've been going to Sapporo for a little over three years now and I have no plans to stop. I enjoy the menu, I find the fish to be fresh, the service to be warm (on occasion hilariously erratic), and the prices to be reasonable. The green tea has the flavor of toasted rice, and the miso is exceptionally sweet without being salty. The waitress calls me "sweetie." That's enough for me.

That said, my ume shiso roll arrived with pickled plum paste rather curiously plopped atop my roll rather than inside it (see detail, left). I've never had that happen before. I can't explain it. My Brooklyn roll, which involves fried mint leaves and spicy tuna on the outside, arrived as Kevin might have predicted--a muddle of tastes (however delicious) with only the mint leaves recognizable by their crunch. Score one for Kevin.

It's enough to make me want to try Wasabi, just to see how the two stand up. But once, and only once!

MIKE EATS NEXT TIME: Perhaps, just perhaps, at Wasabi.

Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 7: Champion Coffee

Champion Coffee
1108 Manhattan Avenue
(b/t Clay St. & Dupont St.)
Brooklyn, NY 11222
(718) 383-5195

I WAS TIPPED off last weekend that a new coffee joint had opened recently in Greenpoint. Not Starbucks, thank you. It's Champion Coffee now weighing in for what has emerged as quite the heavyweight rumble, challenging for java supremacy the aforementioned national chain, critically-acclaimed Cafe Grumpy, and now-veteran Ashbox. It's remarkable, really, with chic Williamsburg lurking nextdoor that the best cup o' joe in North Brooklyn mind wind up on Manhattan Ave. Are good grinds the final harbinger of gentrification in Greenpoint? That's going to have to be a conversation for another day.

Now, that's a good lookin' machine

Walking into Champion for the second time in two days, I still can't ignore the big, beautiful vintage Faema espresso machine that stands guard over the counter, indeed the entire establishment. You feel as if you could just ignore the chalkboard of offerings and accept in kind anything that gorgeous machine turns out. Having come to sit and read for a bit, I settled for a basic (and probably boring, considering the options) cafe americano. I chose a bagel with cream cheese and tomato from the menu and left the more tempting options for another visit.

Still, that simple cup of coffee was perhaps the best I've had in Greenpoint. That pains me to admit, since I've long claimed Ashbox owns that throne. I'll have to return another day, though, and see if Champion's grander choices--lattes and espressos--match the masterpieces that Cafe Grumpy turns out. I have no plans to visit Starbucks, though perhaps in all fairness we'll have to see how its measures up.

Delicious, but worth the price of admission?

One last point: on Friday morning I grabbed a 16 oz. cafe americano to go. It cost me $2. Not a cheap cup of coffee, but a price I'm willing to accept outside of Midtown given the quality. This morning, I ordered a cup of the same. It also cost me $2, but I'm willing to bet the lovely white mug it arrived in was not 16 oz. Given the quality, I expected my second cup would not be a free refill, but I certainly wasn't expecting to pay the full $2. This is a dilemma I expect Champion to solve. I'm willing to pay $2 to carry home 16 oz. of coffee, but I'm not willing to pay $4 to enjoy that same 16 oz. divided between two 8 oz. cups.

MIKE EATS NEXT TIME: Certainly, but only to go.

Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 6: Paloma

Paloma
60 Greenpoint Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11222
718-349-2400
www.palomanyc.com

A HANDFUL OF newcomers are etching a whole new culinary face on the Greenpoint scene. Of note, Lamb & Jaffy, Brooklyn Label, and the excellent Queen's Hideaway are just a few, but leading the pack is Paloma. This haven of "urban American cuisine" is a blank canvas for its patrons, equal parts classy, communal, and striving for the creative.

Paloma's allure is its food, though it's simple menu seems unlikely to draw crowds down to the Greenpoint waterfront. Indeed, word of mouth does the trick and the crowds do come. They swing open Paloma's large wooden gate to find a sleek and sparsely-decorated interior, turntables assembled even before the first tables, and ultimately some of the most accessible food on this side of the East River. Imagine the comfort of Williamsburg's Relish relieved of its diner kitsch.

Coriander Pesto Seared Tuna Salad

The prices are manageable, the dishes extraordinary. The menu changes seasonally (expect a Summer menu soon), with both inventive highlights like Coriander Pesto Seared Tuna Salad and Parmesan Crusted Tilapia (both $14) and classics like Roasted Chicken with Potato Pancake ($12) or juicy Strip Steak and Fries ($19). My personal favorite, however, remains the Hominy Stew with Roasted Spaghetti Squash ($11), cooked so perfectly tender the tiny bits of hominy and squash might be confused for pasta.


The wine menu is decent, with five or six selections each of red and white wines, but the cocktails are worth a trip alone. House-infused vodkas lend a special flavor to almost all of them, standouts being the Vanilla Old Fashioned (made with a vanilla-infused 12-year bourbon), Pomegranate Gin Fizz, and Mac's Cosmo (featuring lime-infused 42 Below vodka). These are elegant cocktails that taste as good as they sound, and don't sound ridiculous when you order them.

Be sure the try the Chamomile Tres Leches (when it's not sold out), a thick, sweet pound cake soaked in a light chamomile-infused cream. One of the best desserts I've ever had.

It would be great to see more acts performing live, but with old Spanish flicks and Westerns playing on Paloma's great white wall, there's always something to keep you entertained aside from the food.

MIKE EATS NEXT TIME: As soon as he hears about a Summer menu.

Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 5: Rachel's Corner

ONE OF GREENPOINT'S greatest establishments is neither a bar nor a restaurant, though it does suspiciously advertise pizza on its awning which is a product I have never actually known it to sell. Curious. Rachel's Corner, located at the corner of Nassau Avenue and Eckford Street, is a 24-hour corner store well-stocked with fresh fruits and veggies, necessary Polish goods, breads, cheeses, pickles, and healthy things as such you can never seem to find them at 3:00 a.m.

That said, this post could probably also be called "How to Not Make Turkish Coffee." But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Some time ago, Mint and I wandered into Rachel's in search of assorted breakfast foods. We asked the man behind the cashier counter for a bag of the coffee that was perched behind him. He happily obliged, then added (here it comes):

"Have you ever tried Turkish coffee?"

Of course, we had not. He informed us it was slightly sweeter than regular coffee but very delicious. As Mint and I will apparently do anything a kind man behind the counter of a grocery store tells us to do late at night, we agreed to try some. Our now-friend's face beamed. We imagined it was partly his Turkish pride showing through, but also perhaps his shock at having convinced the two of us to buy Turkish coffee simply by mentioning it, cursing inside, and probably wishing he had told us to by the $20 corked bottle of Belgian beer in the back cooler.

We took home our can of finely-ground Royal türk kahvesi, and gave it a shot the next morning. Indeed, it was sweeter than regular coffee but very delicious. Our friend was absolutely right. No masters of Turkish culinary customs, the instructions as printed on the label:

"Turkish coffee is traditionally prepared in a cezve, a small long-handled pot. Place on a low source of heat with one heaped teaspoon of coffee per cupfull of water and add sugar to taste. Heat slowly, stirring gently until the sugar dissolves. When the coffee begins to froth, remove it from the heat. Pour a little of the froth into each cup and return it to the source of heat. Allow the coffee to rise once more, without it reaching boiling-point and serve it in the cup. Be careful not to stir after serving as this will disturb the sediment, leaving a gritty taste.

Having no cezve in our home, we use what we imagine is an appropriate substitute--a saucepan. Well, actually, I'm sure this is absolutely the wrong thing to do, but it suffices to make a decent cup, comparing relatively well to the few cups I've had while dining out.

Saucepan: right or wrong, it's too late now

Add very little sugar at first until you know how sweet the coffee will turn out, and if you do add sugar you should do so during the heating stage as the last sentence of the instructions really is the most important, "Do not stir after serving." Finely-ground as they are, all of the grinds do not dissolve but do settle to the bottom of your cup. Let them rest. Drink happy.

Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 4: Pete's Candy Store

Pete's Candy Store
709 Lorimer Street
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 302-3770
www.petescandystore.com

PETE'S CANDY STORE simply must be considered one of the best bars in Brooklyn, and any "best of" list overlooking it isn't worth the paper it's printed on. On a most basic level, Pete's qualifies with a beautiful bar, a stylish back room set up for bands, and an outdoor garden. It's small, which keeps things intimate. It's relaxed. It's classy. It's stage is booked with worthy artists and musicians every single night of the week, not to mention trivia nights, bingo nights, Scrabble night, stand-up nights, and The World-Famous Pete's Spelling Bee with BobbyBlue and Jenisfamous (accept no substitutes.)

It's a Spelling Bee!

It's worth mentioning here, in a blog about food, because Pete's does indeed serve sandwiches (if not candy)--your choice of five or six hot, pressed sandwiches ($7) ranging from pastrami and swiss with sauerkraut to tomato, basil and mozzarella, served up with a pickle. Mmmmm, pickles.

Anyway, it's hard to live anywhere up north in Brooklyn without making a pilgrimage sooner or later. It's hard to not get sucked in with so much going on. I do suggest going on a weeknight, though, when you don't have to fight the crowds that flock in on the weekend. Just check out the website to see what you're getting yourself into. And if that picture of Matty smiling into the camera isn't enough to get you onto the L train, well, then you're dead inside.

Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 3: Brooklyn Label

Brooklyn Label
180 Franklin Street
Brooklyn, NY 11222
(718) 389-2806
www.brooklynlabel.com

THE GREATEST PERK of working as a freelancer in the production industry is free meals. Generally, on a shoot day, you get to wake up and have coffee and a bagel provided for you. Lunch is either bought for you or it's delivered hot. If you're union and you work overtime, you'll even get dinner! Free meals, even when working for them, are pure joy.

So, with freelance gigs lined up with different companies for the next couple weeks, I was assuming breakfast and lunch were going to be all sewn up for a while. Let's just say we didn't get off to a screaming good start.

Today's small shoot with a small crew featured not only zero break for breakfast (I did steal some bites of a bagel and coffee from the cast table), but the director rushed to get done by 3 p.m. and the producer thereupon released us without offering any lunch, stomachs grumbling and blood starting to boil.

To add to the frustration, tomorrow call time is 4 a.m., which is an ungodly hour of the morning to be headed to work. And I've already been warned that it'll be a long day. Which leaves time today for a meal and an early, early bedtime.

Mint and I wandered up Manhattan Avenue looking for something new and exciting, and happily settled for the been-established and still exciting Brooklyn Label. Of course, having had no breakfast or lunch, I skipped dinner and went for breakfast. The curry tofu with potatoes, provolone cheese and broccoli was fantastic, and the hashbrowns again perfect with the homemade ketchup, and this time we bought a bottle (worth it, even for $8) to bring home.

Whereupon I immediately went to sleep (read: took a nap) for tomorrow's shoot. Let's hope someone remembers to bring bagels. At 4 a.m., I'm gonna need 'em.

MIKE EATS NEXT TIME: The second trip to Brooklyn Label was as good as the first. I see no reason to stop now.

Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 2: Sapporo Haru

Sapporo Haru
622 Manhattan Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11222
(718) 389-9697

IF ANYONE ACCUSES me of exaggerating or puffing up what I eat because I'm posting it here, I will refer them to today's Menu. If you'll scroll down, there you'll notice that prior to dinner, I had eaten (yes, mom, I'm sorry) tater tots. And that's it. My excuse? I had a headache?

Honestly, there just wasn't anything else in the fridge. I've been gone for almost two weeks! Mint was cat-sitting! And that's the way it is.

Which means that by dinnertime I was, yes, very hungry. And I don't normally advocate eating raw fish on a wholly empty stomach, but I really do love Sapporo Haru quite a bit. Part of my love for it is the wonderful (read: slightly crazy) waitress who makes dining there a surreal experience. That, and the green tea that tastes slightly of toasted rice. That, and the miso soup is some of the best I've had anywhere.

But we settled for rolls and tofu teriyaki tonight (both which come with the aforementioned miso soup). And had it delivered because we were lazy. Which, you'll notice from the Menu, was pretty much my day.

MIKE EATS NEXT TIME: Yes, we'll stop in and come back with a better story.

Mike Eats Greenpoint, Volume 1: *erb & Hana Foods

*erb Thai Restaurant
681 Manhattan Avenue
(b/t Bedford & Norman)
Brooklyn, NY 11222
718-349-8215

Hana Foods
534 Metropolitan Avenue
(b/t Lorimer & Union)
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718-218-7747

BEHOLD! TWO STAPLES of the Williamsburg-Greenpoint diet. One is consistently good, reasonably priced Thai food, and the other simply must be considered one of the greatest delis in all the five boroughs.

First, it's hard to be disappointed with *erb on any account. Yes, they suffer from occasional menu and service inconsistencies as any neighborhood take-out favorite does to from time to time. You'll get over it.

Recommended are the noodle dishes ($7.95, with tofu, chicken or beef.), especially the Curry Noodles--a huge bowl of spicy curry loaded with thin noodles, veggies, and big triangle wedges of tofu. Lots of interesting appetizers are also big draws. The crispy chive pancakes are frequently sold out. The Taro Crunch is big chunks of fried taro root with peanuts.And the Tofu Crisp is a pile of fried tofu best enjoyed quickly on premises rather than soggy upon delivery.

Next is Hana Foods, a veritable Williamsburg institution serving as a 24-hour deli, flower shop, a specialty/organic food mart, and home to Omar's overwhelmingly extensive board of sandwiches. As a kicker, most everything can be made with (and, honestly, is probably better as) vegetarian and vegan options.

The Godfather is a huge hero of Italian meats that will suffice for two meals; the vegan meatball sub is a more-than-worthy stand-in for its carnivorous cousin; the breaded eggplant, chicken, and tofu cutlets are superb; and the Veggie Reuben (a veggie burger chopped and grilled like corned beef and smashed between rye toast with hot sauerkraut and melting Swiss) is one of the most creative vegetarian sandwiches I've ever eaten.

Best of all, Hana will deliver them (and anything in its store) to your doorstep 24 hours a day (NOTE: their menu is hard to find complete online, so get yourself a full one form the store itself). Williamsburg is prime delivery area, but even nearby Greenpointers can coax a delivery guy out on a slow night.

MIKE EATS NEXT TIME: Yes, he does. Many, many times.