Saturday, September 1, 2007

End of Summer, Part I: The Bigger Little Place

The Bigger Little Place
61 Warren Street
New York, NY 10007
(212) 528-3175

THIS MEXICAN KITCHEN, formerly known as The Little Place, was forced to close what was its Tribeca lunch counter in the aftermath of September 11. Six months later, its owners purchased the storefront nextdoor, renovated, expanded, and reopened as the Bigger Little Place.

Surely there are finer brunch spots in New York. Certainly there are far cheaper Mexican kitchens. Yet it is to the Bigger Little Place that Mint and I return time and time again, and today we dragged Steph with us. There's something about the grilled biscuits with strawberry butter. Mint swears the bacon is the best she's ever had. The huevos rancheros, eggs piled up on thick corn tortillas, are more satisfying than any I've had elsewhere. It's wholly unfascinating, and it's probably more expensive than it ought to be. I have no explanations.

Still, I have to recommend the Bigger Little Place. It's an honest kitchen in a city that so often boasts restaurants aiming for such great heights. You can do nothing here but sit, drink coffee, and enjoy your meal (the service, though amiable and pleased to respond to your requests, is rather laid-back, so perhaps you have no other choice). The Bigger Little Place is quite simply just delicious.

MIKE EATS NEXT TIME: Yup, yup! If you're visiting the city and staying downtown there's an out-of-towner discount if you show your out-of-town driver's license for brunch.

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